Sunday service had 14 in worship and four of our regular worshipers had gone out of town.  The singing has gotten much better.  The two Philippine women have been in church every Sunday after the first one and they add some good music on the Ukulele - boy can they harmonize.  I mentioned a scene from the movie Acts of Valor and a couple in church, Ryan and Yvonne, had met in the military and had serviced the Harrier Helicopters in movie.  Small world.  

It is clear that I am seeing the 2015 Yakutat.  So many of the stories I hear are of a time not so long ago.  Many Native villages have lots of trouble with alcohol - it was true here too.  But there have been great efforts to change that behavior and it seems that the method that is working best is to build pride in their heritage.  This week I attended Culture Camp where the young Native children are taught about their culture: they are taught the Tlingit language, about leadership, about ethics and about how to survive.  They are taught how to live by subsistence.  For them this means that the primary source of their food comes from the land.  It has to be this way because foods that are shipped or flown in are expensive.  Most say that subsistence is the best way to live.  So the children are taught to fish, a variety of ways to process fish, to hunt and to make due.  At the dump there is an area for washing machines, one for refrigerators, another for furnaces, and so on.  If something on yours breaks the first place to go for a replacement part is the dump - it’s recycling on steroids.  An expression I’ve heard over and over is: “we may not have everything we want but we have everything we need.”  It’s true.  There is a good quality of life in Yakutat.  

The population of Yakutat has been falling off.  I’ve heard reports as low as 400.  The census, which is a little behind, indicates a 25% decrease in the last 10 years, from 800 to 600.  I’ve heard that the majority of the exodus has been ‘the whites’ and it’s because they can’t find jobs; costs of fuel oil is high, and education is underfunded.  There are whites who live the subsistence way but if it’s not part of your culture I can see how it would be a hard transition.  

Culture Camp is 10 days long and goes from 8 am until about 7 pm each day.  I’m trying to spend several hours there a day.  They have sent out a few hunters to get a seal so they can teach the kids how they process it.  This will involve processing the meat and rendering the fat into oils.  I’m hoping they get one so I can observe the process.  

The first (and only) Salmon I’ve caught weighed about 8 lbs.  It was a Sockeye.  Sockeye are vegetarians so you don’t actually fish for them with bait.  You have to snag them and if you don’t snag it inside the mouth you’re supposed to throw it back.  It seemed impossible but I got one, hooked completely inside the mouth.  Of course, this is much easier when the river is ‘bubbling’ with salmon but that hasn’t been the case so far.  The numbers are way down - only about 3,000 have gone through the Weir.  According the Forest Ranger I spoke to  there should be 8 to 9 thousand through the Weir by now.  He said they were not going to panic for another week or two.  Fish don’t alway operate on our schedule and it has been an unusually dry and warm year.  Four years ago they had over 450 inches of snow but this year it all went to Boston!

Off to Culture Camp.  I pray all is well back in Beaver Butler Presbytery!

It really started yesterday.  There was a knock on the door and when I opened it a man introduced himself as Richard.  I invited Richard in.  Richard asked if Cathy had mentioned him and I said, “she had but along with a bunch of other things so, remind me”.   

Richard owns a ship.  I don’t know how long it is but it is powered by two 1,200 Horse Power CAT engines that burn 40 gallons of gas per hour each at 30 knots.  “I pick up and deliver pilots to Cruise Ships”, Richard said, “and Cathy thought you’d like to take a ride”  —  time: tomorrow morning, be at the Harbor at 10, I’ll have one or two pilots to pick up”.  

I agreed to go. “Yes, of course”, I said.  Frankly, I didn’t understand what he was talking about.  Do Cruise Ships have ‘Pilots’?  Is that the term they use for the Captain?  Well, It turns out, Cruise Ships do have Pilots but they are not the same as the Captain.  Captains drive the ship but Pilots navigate the ship in dangerous waters.  When Cruise Ships are way out to sea they don’t always have to have a Pilot.  But when Ships enter the inland waterways, the Fiords, the bays and coves, the sea between the Islands, Pilots are required by law.  It’s sort of like the trucks that need to be escorted across Pennsylvania.  These guys know the ropes, the terrain, and the in’s and out’s.  But here is the really interesting part: The Cruise Ship does not stop to pick up or let off a Pilot - they do it ‘in flight’.  That’s where Richard and his ship comes in: First we saw the Cruise ship coming on the horizon; then we drove right past it; then we did a strange ‘turn on a dime’ maneuver; then we caught up to the Cruise Ship; then we made our speed match theirs (which, being so close seemed pretty fast); then we got closer and closer and closer until we finally touched.  There were just a few old tires as bumpers between us and they rested right up against the Cruise ship.  As we moved along a door opened on the side of the ship - a door I didn’t even know was there until it opened; then a small ladder was lowered from the door to our ship, and finally the Pilot came down and boarded our ship.  The door was closed, we separated, and away we went.  The Pilot’s name was Doug.  He , was going to spend two days in Yakutat.  The Cruise Ship would go on to Steward and he’d catch it again on the way back to Ketchikan.  The next day Carla and I went to the towns only Surf Shop to check on T-shirts.  One other customer came in while we shopped  —  it was Doug.  He had ridden a bike. 

After our morning adventure we went to Ron’s to let him know that Cathy was going away for a week and she had lent us her car.  Ron had planned on getting his truck back to us and now that would not be necessary.  We asked Ron what we’d need for tomorrows fishing trip - just a license, ‘you can get on at the Hardware Store.  As we talked, Ron he was filleting six Sockeye Salmon he had caught earlier that day.  When he was done Ron walked to a small clearing with the fish remains and dumped them on the ground.  You do not realize how loud the swoosh of an Eagle’s wings are until they fly in right above your head.  In moments all the fish parts were gone, gathered up and carried away by majestic Eagles.  Before we left Ron asked, ‘what are you guys having for dinner?’  I said, ‘probably the other half of the salmon you gave us.  He handed me a bag and said, ‘here, this is to go with it.’  Then he added, ‘you don’t have to detain these shrimp, they come from the glacier waters and its so cold they use all their food for every - there is no waste.  I found that hard to believe but it turned out Ron was right.  Not a vein in them, just mild tasty shrimp.

I was all ready for my second youth group Wednesday night but no one showed up.   Turns out the kids grandfather missed his flight in from Seattle and was delayed.  They were waiting at the airport.  I learned this when I walked over their house the next day and ran into their dad (and granddad) getting ready to go fishing.  I left him a few things for each of the boys to study.  Well, theres always next week.  

Since there was no Youth Group I went for walk and witnessed one of the town’s oddities: As I was walking down a dirt road I could see coming toward me a women.  She was walking the Llama I had sung to the day before.  Both she and the Llama were dressed in all the garb you’d expect to see on the streets of Peru.  The only thing out of character was the paper plate pinned to the blanket on the Llama that said, “I’m not here so you can take pictures”.  I said ‘good evening’ but got no response - it was all quite surreal.  

Harlequin Lake Glacier.  A 30 mile drive on well maintained dirt roads and a 3/4 mile hike.  On the day I thought I had woken up in Florida (80 degrees) this was a refreshing destination.

Sorry for so few photos.  This one took a couple hours to download and three other failed.  Internet in the bush isn't like internet back home.  Three other photos failed.  Enjoy.  

Wednesday, June17

The night with the kids was fun as I anticipated but I guess I asked the wrong question.  I asked if anyone had an instrument, I should have asked ‘can anyone PLAY an instrument’.  We had two ukuleles’, a harmonica, a mandolin, and a guitar - no one could play a single chord or sound on any of them.  Except one boy who had learned to pick the alphabet song out on the guitar but I could figure out how we’d use that in a worship service.  We played some games at the church and I got the boys to practice singing a song - “Jesus Love Me”.   We’ll do in a couple weeks - after lots of practice!  Then we went over to the manse and the five of us consumed three dozen cookies.  As Carla put them on the table she said, “When you’re done bring the rest over to the ladies Beading at the church”.  Yea right!  Fresh cookies in front of four teenage boys and you say, “bring what’s left”!  Needless to say, there were none left.  After the boys left I went over and told the ladies.  They seemed genuinely disappointed so I went back to the manse and cooked up a batch.  When I came back with fresh, hot, oatmeal, crazin and pecan cookies they were genuinely surprised - everyone deserves a cookie.  

The pot luck was a great time too and we got to meet a few more members.  The food was superb!  Two different kinds of salmon; King and Sockeye - both delicious - and a nice rice dish with seaweed bits in it.  There were a few other dishes that were unique to us but nothing we didn’t like.  Lots of stuff from the sea and being from New England, I like that.  Carla and I brought a dish my mother used to make.  We call it American Chop Suey - it seemed to go over pretty well too.

During the week we walked: to the grocery, to the other grocery, to the hardware store, to the Harbor, to fat Grandma’s for a Latte and to the Post Office.  When we weren't walking we went on hikes: the Totem trail, the Harbor trail, and a hike around the town.  Then, a member dropped off a truck for us to use so we were able to get to some of the further away hikes: the Russel Fiord Trail, the Glacier Bear trail and the Harlequin Lake Trail (which is a glacial lake) - It was pretty cool (double entendre intended).  

Two great things happened on Saturday.  One, the rain stopped and it got warm; and two, Cathy, the church Treasurer and Yupik Native picked us up and took us to many places along the ocean.  We gathered some cockles which Carla brought home to steam and eat - pretty good. Cathy also showed us a number of other things that can be eaten from the ocean.  We helped gather but didn’t try all of them. Fresh seaweed (and I mean fresh like directly from the ocean to your mouth) was a bit salty and a little chewy but loaded with iron I’m told.  We went to Cannon beach where there are still old cannons, rusting, but pointing out to sea as a defense against the Japanese from WWII.  All and all it was an adventure.

Our second Sunday was great fun.  There are two Polynesian ladies who play Ukulele and sang in their native language.  I didn’t understand a word but boy could they harmonize.  I’m told next week they will sing using the Tlingit (pronounced ‘kling-kit) language and I have their permission to tape it.  If you’re not thinking “I can’t wait to hear that”, you should be.   

After church a local fishing and hunting guide and regular attender at church, Ron, gave us some salmon he had caught that morning.  it became our dinner and was out-of-this-world.  Then, to our surprise, Ron showed up a couple hours later and left us a truck.  This was the second time we’ve had a vehicle in only two weeks.  We took advantage by driving down to Leonard’s Landing and renting a tandem kayak.  The great weather made us aware that we are surrounded by mountains.  At one end of the range is Mt Saint Elias and at the other end Mt Fair Weather.   The natives tell the story that years ago the two mountains were married and the mountains in between are their children.  I posted a picture of the ‘children’ on Instagram if you have access.  

That about catches us up to today.  Today we walked; to the Post Office, to the ‘other grocery, to the (original) grocery, to fat Granma’s and back to the manse.  When we got home I suggest we go for a hike but Carla said ‘no’ - so I hiked alone while she practiced some music.  I took a road where I had seen a Llama on an earlier hike.  The Llama was startled when it first saw me and ran for it’s house. But, I started signing to it: ‘All creatures of our God and King . . . ‘.  Slowly the Llama began walking toward me until it was right up against the fence.  I moved closer but stayed about ten feet away.  I sang softly for about fifteen minutes and the Llama just stood there staring at me and chewing it’s cud.  I plan to go back tomorrow.  

OUR FIRST SUNDAY

June 7th  —  our first Sunday.  Our service was at 11 and we had five children and nine adults.  The service went well.  At the beginning I asked if anyone had a guitar I could borrow and one of the boys said he had one.  Then the other kids started in: I have a ukulele; me too; and I have a native drum I play; and I have a harmonica.  I suggested we all get together Wednesday night at 5:30 to practice for next Sunday.  They all committed to coming - this aught to be fun.  

After church I went next door to the Assemblies of God church were they were having a picnic.  Asked if Pastor Jack was there but he had left.  Pastor Jack is 78 years old and has committed to serving their church ‘one year at at time’.  This really resonated with me given some of our own faithful, dedicated, retired pastors who keep saying, “one more, then I’m really retiring!”   The people at the Assemblies church were very pleasant and helpful.  Les introduced himself as I helped him load a gas grill into his truck.  He then loaned me a guitar to use while I’m here and invited me to stop by his house sometime to get a spare capo he has.  This church is building a new building.  It is the type that is all steel and they are doing as much of the work themselves as they can.  They too are a pretty small congregation and a few let it be know that they believe this undertaking was either too big or unnecessary.  Nevertheless, the basic structure is up and it will serve them, this community and the Lord well.  

We had communion today and used the ‘ancient rite of intinction’.  They had done this before but it had been some time.  The congregation seemed genuinely glad to celebrate the sacrament together.  It was a great way to start our ministry here.  

The only music in the church is ‘a cappella’ singing because they have no one to play the piano so Carla played the opening to our songs so we could get in tune.  We hope to choose songs the next few weeks that she can help with but she reminds me that she is not a piano player - actually, she did pretty well.

Tonight they have planned a pot luck ‘meet and greet’ at the church.  I’ve already let them know that I’ll do anything for a pot luck or an ice cream social - tonight should be fun!!

I pray that you are all doing well.  

Peace and God’s Blessings,

Alan

June 4th:  The first full day in Yakutat began at 7 am.  We sleep a little later than normal and get to bed a little later.  I suppose we are still adjusting to the time change and the fact that it remains light outside until 10:30 pm.  At around 10:30 the sun ‘sets’ and it out in full force again by 4:30 am.  During the time that the sun is set you could still drive without headlights.   

It rained all night and continues today.  The locals say they need the rain so the rivers will swell and the fish can return from their spawning so they can return to their fishing.  It looks like they will get their wish; the next several days predict rain.  

After breakfast we took inventory of issues in the manse that needed repair and a few items we are lacking.  Then we put on full rain gear and walked the 1/4 mile to the Post Office to pick up the church mail —  it was quite windy and raining hard.  At the PO we met the Post Lady and her husband who gave us a map of the town.  After we asked him a few ‘where is the . . . .’ questions, he decided we needed it more than he did and gave it to us.  I invited him to church as a way of saying thank-you.  He told me ‘the walls would cave in if he were to show up’.  I bet him a beer he was wrong - but still haven’t seen him — yet.  

We walked back to the manse and stayed long enough to answer e-mails and text messages —  still no telephone except local land line.  Every e-mail is a 50/50 shot as to whether it will go out but Text messages (to iPhones only) seem to work fine - go figure.  

After that we suited back up and headed for the hardware store and the grocery.  The map said the hardware store was a mile walk and the grocery just a little beyond it  —  it seemed shorter.  

On the way back we stopped at Fat Grandma’s Coffee Shop.  Fat Grandma was real friendly and gave us several tips on things to see while here.  She also has a collection of books that are free for the taking.  We’re just now realizing we may not have brought enough reading material so we grabbed a few  —  I got ‘Walking the Choctaw Road’, a series of stories the Choctaw Indians of the Alabama and Mississippi told about their plight during the years around the ‘Trail of Tears’ innocent.  

We got a Latte and bought a lunch to go (and share); twelve-fifty for a taco and three-eighty-nine for a pop is a little hard to swallow (pun intended).   

At the grocery a liter of coke was $5.89!  It’s hard to figure why some things are so pricy and others are the about the same as back home.  

By the time we got back we were pretty drenched even with the rain gear.  Spent the afternoon reading and fixing some things around the manse.  I found an old VHS player in the closet and hooked it up to the TV (which doesn’t work).  Turns out it had a copy of Fried Green Tomatoes stuck in it.  I got it running and we listened to the last quarter of the movie with many horizontal lines across the picture.  Neither of us really stopped the other things we were doing to watch but it was nice to have some noise in the background.  

While at the hardware store earlier we bought some Bear Repellant Pepper Spray.  We were told not to hike the trails without it  —  the adventure may now begin.  

In the last two years there have been 65 innocents of people vs bear in Yakutat.  The town has now appointed a Bear Guard Group to work on keeping Bear/human encounters to a minimum.  Tonight I’ll read up on what to do should we have an encounter  — that is, besides cry.  

I’ve been napping an hour every late afternoon.  By then I’ve usually walked 3-5 miles so it’s pretty easy to do.  It’s probably good that I’ve always enjoyed hiking.  I suspect that 5 to 7 miles a day is going to be typical around here.  We will have a car but only for a couple weekends while we are here.  

It never really gets dark but honestly that hasn’t really bothered me too much.  Just need to keep an eye on a clock as not to stay up all night.  

I’m expecting a quite night; reading, writing, texting, reading, sudoku, and reading.  

I had a call today from our host, Cathy.  She just wanted to check to see if the WiFi worked. As I’ve said, it does but spotty.  Other than that no contact with church members.  Have meet four women so far — no men yet.  

As the first day ends the wind has died down  —  the rain has not.  

Sorry there are no pictures.  I'll try one now and then but it usually prevents my posts, emails or texts from going out.  

Day one was mostly travel but the Cedar Brook Lodge near the Airport in Seattle was great.  I'd describe it as elegant / casual.  A great restaurant and 'sustainable low-impact' rooms - cool place.  We mostly relaxed and recovered from the travel that day.  The time difference is four hours.  

Day two was a joy!  My sister and brother in-law took time out of their busy schedules to show us the town.  They have themselves recently moved to the Seattle area but have been there just long enough to know some of the great places to see.  First it was the Japanese Gardens where the pictures above were taken; then we went to Seattle's Pike Place Public Market and watched them throw fish; next it was a stroll on the pier where the picture below was taken  --  Mt Rainer is about four hours away but still visible from the pier.  We ate at Edna's Restaurant along the Wharf - I'd recommend it to anyone.  

After enjoying the day and dinner with relatives Carla and I returned to the lodge.  We are not yet acclimated to the four hour difference.  Its also a little disconcerting to take photos outside at 10 pm without a flash.   

On Day three we just took in the town ourselves.  We went to Salt Water Park along the bay. Salt Water Park was partially closed due to landslide activity.  Not much to see except driftwood, barnacles, a few Sand Dollars, and dead crabs - not worth the price to enter the park  --  we carried on.  

The flight to Juneau was on time and pleasant.  A short three hours then a shuttle to the Juneau Hotel. Our room is enormous!!